Larry Memmott's Blog

Gateway of the Sun, Tiwanaku

Tiwanaku is mandatory, even if you are in Bolivia for only a few days.  It is the premiere archaeological site in the country and provides an opportunity to learn about the longest lived empire in South America.  On the way to Tiwanaku, you can visit the first cathedral in Bolivia and the site of the founding of La Paz.  Just beyond Tiwanaku is the Titicaca port town of Guaqui, with its own colonial church, a couple of natural arches carved by time and weather from sandstone, and the town of Jesus de Machaca with another colonial church, quite different from the others.  The short drive from Guaqui is a quick introduction to the altiplano and also features nice views of Lake Titicaca.

Tiwanaku is only 1-2 hours from La Paz, so it is an easy day drip.

Church in Laja, first cathedral of Bolivia

Take Panamerican Highway #1 west southwest leaving El Alto.  This is the road to Desaguadero and the Peruvian/Bolivian border and is paved all the way there.  Only some 12 miles from the intersection where Highway #2 splits off to the northwest, you will arrive at Laja.  Either coming or going, take a few minutes to visit the initial founding place of La Paz and the first cathedral in the region.

There is a toll booth just past Laja.  The turnoff to the right for Tiwanaku is only another 21 miles down the road.  The site itself is about a mile down the road and to the right, and is well signed.

Tiwanaku Church

After leaving Tiwanaku, you should visit the Tiwanaku church in town, which is about half a mile further.

On the way out of town, watch for the sign for Pumapunku on the left.  Pumapunku is part of the Tiwanaku site, but I have not yet visited it.

The Chapel in Guaqui

Another 11 miles from the turnoff to Tiwanaku is the turnoff, also to the right, to the Titicaca port town of Guaqui.  Here you can visit the colonial church and drive out to the port, which is a transshipment point for cargo coming across the lake onto the railroad spur that runs from Guaqui to La Paz.

Just beyond Guaqui is a police checkpoint.  The focus here may be smuggling or drugs, as when I have been here there have been many trucks parked to the side of the road, likely for inspection.  About 3.5 miles west of Guaqui a dirt road veers off to the south.  The road climbs a ridge south of Lake Titicaca, and there are nice views out over the lake.

One of the natural arches

On the left side of this road, at about 2.3 miles from the turnoff, two natural arches have been carved in sandstone fins just a short walk off of the road.  They make a short, fun, walk up the hill and a nice natural counterpoint to all the man-made architecture which is the focus of this trip.

Another 14 miles down this dirt road will take you to Jesus de Machaca, with another major colonial church.

Attached is the usual .gdb file with location information on this trip.  It will open in Garmin’s free Basecamp (or MapSource) software or Google Earth to allow you to review the trip before heading out.  Of course, the best way to use it is downloading it onto your GPS for turn-by turn directions.