Larry Memmott's Blog

Tajikistan’s membership in the Russian-Kazakhstani-Belarusian Customs Union (CU) depends on how soon Kyrgyzstan joins the CU?

Ak Suu Gorge Vista

This is a nice day trip from Bishkek into the Ala Too Mountains.  This one is a little further down the road from Sokuluk, but further has its advantages.  It definitely doesn’t feel as “trampled” as some of the closer canyons.

Attached is a .gdb file you can use with your GPS or open in Google Earth to get a better look at the route.  Take a look at the pages on using a GPS in Kyrgyzstan and on using .gdb files with Google Earth for some ideas.  I’ve also input the whole route into OpenStreetMap, so if you use the OSM implementation on your GPS, you can just use the “follow road” option to create your own route.

The route is pretty simple.  Just head out of Bishkek on M39 (the road to Osh, or Taras, in Kazakhstan).  About 30 miles down the road (counting from the old DCMR at Panfilova and Gorkova), you make a left.  The turnoff is about 2 miles after you leave the town of Belovodskoye.  From there on out it is straight up the road.

Bishkek to Ak Suu Gorge

Shortly after the end of the pavement there is a spur on the left that takes you up to a small waterfall with some picnic spots.  (And my statement about this canyon being “less trampled” doesn’t really apply to this area.)

Ak Suu River, at the end of the road

As the map shows, further on there is a turnoff to the left which takes you up to a high Jailoo.  We did not go all the way up there, so the map is incomplete on that route.  The map is complete on the main canyon.  We came to a bridge at the end which is out, so that is as far as the car goes.

There is some good undeveloped hiking to be had up the several gorges which lead off in different directions.  The scenery, as throughout the Ala Too, is spectacular and varied.

I’ve seen quite a few locals fishing the river.  I figure that’s gotta mean there are trout in there.

Ak Suu Gorge Map

I plan to upload “.gdb” files generated by my Garmin etrex Vista HCx as an aid to people trying to find the places I describe or photograph.

There are probably many ways to make use of these files, but I generally use them in two ways.  To view and edit them in their native software, download Garmin MapSource software, which is available for free.  You will then need maps to view the data against, and I explain how to find free, routable maps of the whole world in my Using A GPS in Kyrgyzstan post.  If you have a compatible Garmin GPS, you can then upload maps, tracks and waypoints to your GPS.

My other usual use of these files is in Google Earth.  Google Earth is a great tool for exploring the world virtually.  It is also a great aid for exploring the physical world.  You can open the .gdb files directly in Google Earth to see the tracks and waypoints displayed against the Google Earth imagery.  You can zoom in and see all kinds of detail in the Google maps, depending on what they have on a particular area.  You can also review an elevation profile, showing not only the elevation gain and loss over the route, but also the speeds at which different segments were traveled, maximum and minimum slopes, and the travel time (watch out for this one – we probably had a picnic sometime along the way – and I sometimes delete detours we made, either on purpose or by accident).

You can also edit the tracks and waypoints in Google Earth, and move the modified versions into your GPS.  You have to save them as “.kml” files, and convert them to “.gpx” but this can be done using freeware. (I recommend GPSBabel.)  You can then open the “.gpx” file in MapSource, or even upload directly to your GPS.

You can also create wholly new routes in Google Earth, tracing the roads marked there and then transfer those routes into your GPS.  I have found that to be time-intensive work, but relatively simple to do and it provides quite accurate routes.

Here is what I have figured out on my own. Likely there are better solutions, but here are a couple of alternatives that work, depending on what you want. If you have a better solution, please share it in the comments, or shoot me an email.

And for the record, my GPS is a Garmin etrex Vista HCx. What I describe below will probably work with your GPS, too, maybe with a few modifications, especially if it is a Garmin, but there is no guarantee, of course.

A Map for Your GPS

For starters, you need a map. Garmin does not sell any maps of this area (that I am aware of), so you have to find someone else. I am using Open Street Map (OSM). It’s a very cool wiki-map thing. Basically, anyone can register and then edit the map. I have added a fair amount to the map and obviously there are a number of people doing the same, as I see it getting better day by day. There is a lot missing still, but it’s definitely a worthwhile start.

Of course, you can’t use OSM directly in your GPS device. Luckily, some people, or some groups of people, are already preparing the maps for your use. There are several alternatives, depending on what you want. Alternative 1, below, gives you a routable map using Latinized names for places and things, so it is the easiest for me to use. Alternative 2 is similar, but with most of the names in Cyrillic, which my GPS shows as gibberish. Alternative 3 is intended for people mapping for OSM, and is not routable. I’ve used all three alternatives, and they all worked for me, but Alternative 1 was far easier and the results far better.

1. “Free routable maps for Garmin brand GPS devices” – Latin-Based Routable Maps

This page does a great job of generating the map you want directly from the OSM site, on order. It can have whatever coverage you want, and it is spectacularly easy to use. Even better, I hardly need explain how to use it, since the instructions are right there on the webpage for you to read. You select the tiles you want, and enter your email address. The site will then email you a link to a page from which you can download the map you generated. If you have MapSource installed under Windows, just download the ‘osm_routable_mapsource.exe’ file. You run that file and it will install your new map into MapSource. You can then use the map like any other, including uploading it onto your unit.  More complete instructions.

2. “gis-lab” – Cyrillic Based Routable Maps

This site comes up in Russian initially, but you can change that by using the “Select Language” menu on the right hand of the page. The initial page is a listing of maps of the regions of Russia. When you click on “Countries” though, you get the listing of countries, including Kyrgyzstan, that we want. Click on “Kyrgyzstan” to download the zip file. It’s in 7z format, so you will need something to unzip it. I use IZArc, which is free. Open the extracted folder and double-click on INSTALL.BAT. That will install the Kyrgyzstan map to your copy of MapSource, the Garmin software. You can install whatever maps you need. I have Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan installed, for example, and use them together in MapSource (though it will only show one at a time). From there, it is easy to upload the maps onto your GPS unit.

3. “Cloudmade” – Maps for OSM Mapping

At this site what you want is the first file, kyrgyzstan.img.zip. You then put your GPS unit into “USB mass storage” mode. You rename the .img file to ‘gmapsupp.img’ and put it in the ‘Garmin’ subfolder. Voila. When you turn your GPS on again you will have the OSM. These maps are prepared for people who want to do further mapping, so features which need further work (like names for the streets) are red. It takes a bit of getting used to, but not much.  Unfortunately, the maps will not route.

I got a few hours free on the weekend to hike up to the climber’s cemetery in Ala Archa National Park. The cemetery was established in Soviet times for fallen climbers (most often, literally fallen climbers). It is hidden away in a grove of larch trees — well enough hidden that I missed it the first time I hiked up the valley late last year. The winter scenery was pretty spectacular.

The Cemetery

Alex, Chris and William brought a “Gingerbread House Kit” when they came for Christmas. They were not so excited about making it, though, and only got it out of the suitcase when it was time to pack for home.

Anyway, Aliciya liked it, so she ended up making it.

The Artist and Her Creation

A better view of the house

We had a good New Year’s celebration, shooting off fireworks at home. On New Year’s Day we went downtown to wander around a bit.

At the Lenin Statue in Central Bishkek

At Ala Too Square, where guards stand watching over, well, I'm actually not sure what they are guarding -- maybe the flagpole?

In the center of town they had set up special backgrounds for people to take their pictures, so we did.

That was about it for the kids trip to Kyrgyzstan. We are looking forward to having them here again in the summer.

From the Burana Tower, we went up the mountains to Issyk-Ata, a Soviet-era “Sanitorium.” Traditionally, in this part of the world, whenever you had hot springs you turned them into a place for treating the ill. Issyk-Ata means “Father Heat” and it is a hot spring with a large complex of treatment facilities, a couple of swimming pools, and plenty of rooms for rent. We just drove up to take a walk and see the Lenin statue at the top.

Of course, we had serial snowball fights all along the way

The sanatorium sits in a narrow valley among high mountains

In the shadow of 'Father Lenin'

Christina, winded

Evening, on the way home

We spent one day visiting the ruins of the ancient Silk Road City of Balasagun, including the thousand-year-old Burana Tower. Balasagun was the capital city of the region when Genghis Khan showed up in the 13th Century. He didn’t destroy the city (which was apparently quite out of character for him), but just renamed it. There’s not too much left now, except the tower, but they have collected some old tombstones and put together a small museum. The highlight, though, was the climb up the high, circular staircase, in the dark, to the top of the tower.

Christina in the window of one of the out buildings

William, with the tower in the background

Myrna, with her new Kyrgyz hat!

Entering the tower (and don't miss the super-cool hat)

Climbing (it was completely dark in there without the flash)

Alex and Aliciya coming up

Myrna making the top

Memmott Family at the Top of the Burana Tower

A closer look at the tower

William, on top of what used to be the palace

A collection of carved stones, perhaps headstones from graveyards, has been brought together from all over Kyrgyzstan to the tower.

Aliciya, with one of the headstones

And Christina, with her favorite headstone

The tower, with the mountains in the background

William, Aliciya and I took a great trip up Alamedin Gorge to play in the snow and the hot water of the Teplye Kluchi Hot Springs.

We started out playing in the snow.

Aliciya had a blast playing in all kinds of ways

William set out immediately to climb the mountain (if you follow the footprints, you can see him, just a speck, where they end). Soon Aliciya was trying to follow.

He got way up there, before I called him back down.

And then comes the fun part, sliding back down.

After we got good and cold, we decided to warm up swimming at the hot springs. There is an old Soviet-era swimming pool, where the warm, slightly radioactive, water sooths and warms you.

William, enjoying the warm waters

Aliciya in dreamland -- the steam off of the water gives the place a surreal quality.

William, swimming

Aliciya and William are like their dad: They love the water.

After we finished swimming, I caught this shot of the foothills in the late afternoon light as we came back down.